Friday, 9 August 2013

Backdate: Day 30 - NT/WA Border - HOME!

Another early start this morning to get us home at a decent hour.

Travelling along the Tanami you can see where the recent heavy rains have been and the damage they have caused.

Another full and long day driving with a well deserved lunch break at Tilmouth Well which was very much enjoyed.

From here on in, road is entirely sealed, though only 1 lane and had a large amount of traffic so we were on and off the road most of the way home.

Home safe at about 3pm.

Remainder of the trip was uneventuful and although tiring was good.

Glad to be home and now all the fun starts with unpacking and organising after such a long time away :)

Thanks for following our adventure with us, we had a fantastic trip and all the events along the way just made for stories to tell for months to come!

We hope you enjoy reading the backlogged days through the Kimberley, and our photos, which we only chose the best of the best for you all :)

Looking forward to reading anyone else's trip blogs of any trips in the future, as we thoroughly enjoyed sharing with everyone!

Bye for now. Rhianna and Anthony.

Backdate: Day 29 - Bungle Bungles - Wolfe Creek

Alarm went off at 5am this morning - unfortunately snooze was not an option, with a 400km drive plus 2 hours to drive out of Purnululu National Park we had to set off early.

The road leading back out to the main road has deteriorated since we drove in - we must have been lucky and came in almost immediately after the grader. The road still wasn't bad and not as bad at some we have been on.

Quick shop in Halls Creek and an attempt to buy a bottle of wine for the last few nights on the road - unfortunately the only bottle shop in Halls Creek is guarded by an attendant with all alcohol behind them, and they only sell light beer - nothing else, no spirits, wine nothing.. so we left empty handed.

We called in and saw the China Wall - I had read about it when researching this trip and decided it would be great to see. It was just out of Halls Creek and was really interesting to see. Its entirely made of Quartz, everything else around it has fallen and eroded away but the China Wall has stayed standing. You can walk right along side it, we are glad we got to see it - photos are below. 

Arrived at the beginning of the Tanami Road, again stopped to take a photo and let the tyres down for the last time, then we kept on truckin' into Wolfe Creek.

We arrived at Wolfe Creek at about 1pm. We drove through and had a look at the camp sites, not one had shade so we made the decision not to stay and that with a few more hours of daylight we should be able to make it to the NT/WA border.

We walked up to the crater and WOW! it is HUGE! - well worth stopping and seeing, if you ever get the chance, do.

They allow you to walk all around the rim of the crater which when doing so you get the optical illusion that the crater is moving - very freaky. You can also walk down the crater's edge and right into the middle of the crater. We didn't really have the time to do that but it would be really great to look back from the bottom of it.

Photos are below.

We left the crater after about half an hour and headed for the border. We looked on our camps book and noticed that there is a rest bay right on the border so we would stay there.

We hit the border at about 6pm but there was no sign of a parking bay/ rest stop or anything, just signage. We made the decision to go up a little further and hopefully find something. Soon after, about 20km up we found a rest bay and we stayed there the night.

Almost immediately after we touched the NT side of the Tanami we hit awful corrugations and some wash outs that were so rough they broke the clip off the back of the camper that holds the cover on to the trailer, it is pot riveted in. Something else to fix and hopefully the last bit of damage.

Dinner of hamburgers and then off to bed early. Now we are so close to being home we will push through to arrive home tomorrow. About a 10 hour day so another early start will be done.

Enjoy the photos

Anthony and Rhianna.

                                                China Wall

                                             China Wall



                                     
                                             Wolfe Creek Crater

                                     Wolfe Creek Crater - Looking back to car park from top of crater

                                         Wolfe Creek Crater - Looking up to Crater from carpark





Backdate: Day 28 - Bungle Bungles

Today we woke up bright and early knowing we had a really busy day on our hands with the large amount of walks we had planned.

We set off to the car park of the start of the walks which is 15km from the camp ground we were staying in.

The first visit of the day was to Kungkalanayi Lookout which was a quick 5 minute walk up a very steep hill to overlook a valley and a large group of Bungle Bungles - really nice but it was so windy that we didn't bother to take any photos.

Next was to Osmand Lookout - Another quick 5 minute steep hill that overlooks the Osmand Range and surrounding rivers and ridges - there are photos below.

Then we headed to Echidna Chasm - we were told upon check in that between 11:30am and 12:30pm is the best time to be there as you can watch the sun move over the chasm and light it up. The walk itself is amazing, you have to walk through tiny gaps in the rocks and over fallen boulders and everything to get to the end area where you can sit and watch the sun move over. At the very end there is a ladder leading up a massive rock that has tumbled at some point and then you reach the far end of the chasm. There were a lot of people there all waiting to see the colours that the light brings.

We took some photos - they are below.

Once the sun lit up the chasm and the group has dispersed we headed off back to the car park, then onto The Bloodwoods which is a walk around the Nature Park with sign boards teaching you about many of the different plants and trees and how they provided to the Aboriginals many years ago. We learnt that the Spinifex all along the roads in Northern WA which is red (we thought it was just from so much dust) turns out they are rich with sugary type liquid that can be used to make juices and all sorts.

Then we headed off to the final walk of the day - we had both really wanted to see Mini Palms - known to be a 7.4km walk we were ready with 2-3 litres of water - it turns out that it is 7.4km from the carpark but because we had already walked part of it to get to Bloodwood, it wasn't that far at all :)

The walk was shaded by huge palm trees and big rocks that you have to climb over, something we both loved is just how much of this area is left to be natural, no one has edited anything to make it easier - they just guide you over the things that have moved and so on...

At the end of the walk there is an amazing chasm - you aren't allowed to go inside though it is so tempting to want to - we all decided there are probably waterfalls and gorges throughout.

Photos are below of Mini Palms as well.

All in all we walked about 8km today and are very glad to be stopped and relaxing now :)

Below are also photos of the bungles at sunset - we missed the best time but there are still some nice photos.

We have had a fantastic time at Bungles Bungles - it is a fascinating place and there is so much to see.

Tomorrow we head off to Wolfe Creek and the start of the Tanami to head home.

Rhianna and Anthony.

                                           Osmand Lookout

                                                Echidna Chasm

                                         Echidna Chasm - the end part with the ladder 

                                                      Looking up 

                                                 The sun starting to come through and the amazing rock walls

                                           Mini Palms - The end chasm

                                                Mini Palms Walk 

                                                Mini Palms Walk 

                                               Bungle Bungles Sunset 



Backdate: Day 27 - Warmun Roadhouse - Bungle Bungles

Well it is clear to say we will not be staying at Warmun Roadhouse again... late last night we had an entire herd of cattle walk in from the street and spend the night roaming around the camp ground eating the small amount of grass available and keeping everyone awake.

At one point 5 cows walked through the back area of our camp site - 5 wide and pushed our table into the camper because they didn't all fit - thank god we closed the kitchen up otherwise who knows what damage could have been caused..

After a good couple of hours they all eventually meandered back out onto the road and disappeared leaving us with a few hours to get some sleep.

This morning we spoke to some others that were camped as well and it looks like we all had a rough night with them - just a little disappointing to pay $35 a night + $20 deposit for bathroom key and have trouble with cows all night - suggestion was made that they seriously should consider fencing the area for the campground off to prevent it from happening again.

We left early to head off for the Bungle Bungles. We entered the park at 9am. Most stories we have heard and most information you read on the road in says that it takes 3 hours to drive 52km as it is rough.

We arrived at 10:30am - the road was very good, still corrugated of course but no major washouts or anything to complain about, we are gathering it has just been graded. The drive itself was unreal! The road it so twisty that you don't ever really get above 40 km/h but the scenery along the drive was so magical, and with the road as windy as it was it allows even the driver to get a good look at some of the stunning landscape.

We were told a while ago by some campers we met that the best spot to stay is in the Generator camp as it has bigger camp sites and generally not many people actually run generators or have those new very quiet ones. We booked to stay there and when we arrived at our camp site we knew we made the right decision. Our camp site was a little away from the next site and backed onto the river (which was dry) and is located right at the very back so we had basically the entire back corner to ourselves, it was really nice.

We set up camp and then went out to do some of the walks, we completed 3 walks all stunning!
The Domes, which walks you through the Bungle Bungles and at the end you can walk inside one that has deteriorated - photos below

Cathedral Gorge which was beautiful - photo's below

And Piccaninny Creek Lookout- This wasn't on the agenda but walking back from Cathedral Gorge we were only 400m from it so made the decision to have a look - boy are we lucky we did!! The lookout takes you up on top of some Bungles and looks over an area surrounded by many groups of them - absolutely worth the extra walk! Photos are below.

All in all we had a great day and are looking forward to tomorrow where we have more time to do even more walks and experience what else this amazing park has to offer!!

Rhianna and Anthony. 


                                                Bungle Bungles - Driving in

                                            Bungle Bungles on side of road as we drove in 



                                          See if you can spot it - this is Elephant Rock - isn't it cute!! 

                                                     The Domes Walk

                                          The Domes Walk - The inside of one of the Bungles

                                              Cathedral Gorge
 
                                               Cathedral Gorge
 
                                                  Cathedral Gorge

                                                          Cathedral Gorge 

                                             
                                                                    Piccaninny Creek Lookout

                                                Piccaninny Creek Lookout

                                             Piccaninny Creek Lookout

Thursday, 8 August 2013

Backdate: Day 26 - El Questro - Warmun Roadhouse

We headed off to Warmun Roadhouse this morning. El Questro to Warmun is 100% sealed road so it was a nice change, however due to the brake situation we still had to maintain a relatively slow speed.

We reached the end of the Gibb River Road where we stopped to pump the tyres back up and take some photos - it was such an exciting feeling to know we have just driven start to finish and seen what we have seen, we had the most amazing experience on this trip.

We arrived at Kununarra and were lucky enough to find a shop that had the part for the brakes available.

After a quick shop for groceries for the next few nights and a bit of a dispute with the GPS we found a laundromat. Lucky for us it was behind a servo and a bakery so we were able to wash, fuel up, fill water tanks and have lunch all at the same time! very convenient.

We continued on our way to Warmun Roadhouse and pulled up a little before dark. The camping ground is just to the side of the front of the roadhouse and not fenced or anything.

We had a bit of excitement for the night - a bull wondered in from the road with a hose tied around its neck, it was almost as if someone had been trying to catch it their noose broke leaving the hose wrapped around its neck - a few men from the roadhouse spotted him and tried to help it by cutting the hose. Of course the bull felt threatened and wouldn't let anyone near him.
A few of the men got an idea to wrap a rope around some trees and walk the bull between them, so to catch him and cut the rope then set him free - the smart bull wouldn't have it and once the rope started to move he just backed out!
Eventually the bull walked back out onto the road with the hose still around its neck - hopefully it was OK.

Anthony was able to fix the brakes with the new part - photo's are below of the broken part vs new part - it was definitely broken!

Driving to Bungle Bungles tomorrow - will update then :)

Rhianna and Anthony.


                                                The End of the Gibb River Road






 
                                         Clamp from camper brakes.... Old broken one vs New one...


Backdate: Day 25 - El Questro

Today we woke up fairly early and had breakfast before heading off to see the sites around El Questro.

First stop of the day was Zebedee Springs which is a group of thermal pools with gentle water falls throughout. We sat at the bottom of the springs where is was beautifully shaded by palm trees.

They close the springs every day at 12pm, our guess that it may get too hot late in the day.

After a relaxing time at Zebedee we headed out to Emma Gorge which is still part of El Questro but it is back out of the Gibb River Road. It is about an hour walk to the end, with 11 points of interest along the way, and it was actually one of the easiest walks we have done yet.

There are lovely water pools and falls along the walk and the walk is mostly shaded by trees which makes it nice and cool and much easier.

At the end of the walk there is a massive gorge and a gorgeous waterfall that falls from 110m high, off the ranges that surround you.

We didn't swim as water was icy as the sun never reaches the gorge due to the large ranges, also as we did it so early in the morning it wasn't warm enough to need a swim anyway.

There are also water droplet falls on the other side of the gorge that make for a stunning view, it trickles down and there are many ferns and other plants that have made the side of the range home as they get constant water, it looks really nice with all the greenery down the range.

We headed back to camp and bought lunch from the small deli at reception, surprisingly the prices for food and drinks aren't actually as scary as we were predicting, they had large meat pies for just $4 and all sorts of other goodies.

We are having dinner with Adele and Greg tonight to have a proper catch up before we all head off in different directions again, we will probably not see them again unless we are at each others door steps but it was great to meet such a nice couple on the trip.

Anthony checked the car and camper over today while we had some spare time and found that we have lost the locking pin for the bolt on the removable hitch - we were very lucky nothing happened as we didn't know at all, Anthony has put some wire through it now to stop it from coming apart.

We leave to Warmun Roadhouse tomorrow, via Kununarra for shopping, washing and the part to fix the brakes.

Photos below of Emma Gorge.

Rhianna and Anthony.


                                                            Emma Gorge & Fall

                                           Emma Gorge

                                          One of the water pools along the walk, amazing clear water

                                          Water pool

Backdate: Day 24 - Ellenbrae - El Questro

Before leaving Ellenbrae we walked down to the Billabong, it is large and shady and has jumping fish throughout - would be a perfect spot for an afternoon swim and great fun for kids, unfortunately it was very cool this morning so we gave the swim a miss.

Left Ellenbrae at 9am unfortunately the road heading toward El Questro wasn't much better than what we went through yesterday.

There is a lot of roadworks going ahead majority of the way to El Questro and the roads along the way have been very wet and chopped up by machinery and cars so they are rough but they appear to be smoothing and grading another area to move traffic over while they repair it.

We went through the Durack River, we have heard that it can be a little challenging to go through as well but on this occasion it was dry - there are areas of the river further down from the crossing that still have water but the crossing itself was dry.

Just before the Pentecost River there is a large hill and at the top there is a lookout area that looks over the Pentecost River and the Cockburn Ranges - we have attached photos below, the lookout was spectacular! At the time we weren't sure if the river was the Pentecost or not but we soon found out it was!

They were burning off in the area so there was some smoke around but it didn't cause any visibility issues when driving which was good.

We arrived at the Pentecost River and with camera in hand we were ready to pass through the great river.... and it was dry! Only a little amount of water - the River as per the lookout is still fairly full but over the crossing it has pretty well dried up - it was still exciting to pass through and we still took photos anyway. It doesn't take much to understand why it can be such a challenging river to cross, it is really wide and when full would be deep, I was relieved that I didn't have to stand on the shoreline and take photos but at the same time a little disappointed that we didn't cross it with water running through it, oh well next time!

We arrived at El Questro and set up camp, the camp ground is so big and they have the Pentecost River running along the back camp sites. They also offer private camp sites as well which are about 3km away from the main area, we went and had a look and they are really nice, all spaced apart so you get your privacy and peace and they sit along the Pentecost. We stayed in the main camp area as it is close to all the facilities, though next time we might give the private sites a go.

I went and put washing on once we arrived and couldn't believe, I ran into Adele, who I mentioned earlier in the blog, we met Adele and Greg on the Great Central Road when we were stuck at Tjukayirla Roadhouse. They were in a 200 series landcruiser and a Kimberley Kamper... we thought we may run into each other again as our paths were crossing at Broome but when we didn't we thought we must have missed each other by a few days - It was great to see them again! We exchanged stories of our trips so far and ended up going and seeing them later that day for some drinks and a chat!

When we set up, we found that the temporary fix on the brakes has failed and we have once again lost the brakes on the camper... There isn't much else we can do without parts but Kununarra being the next stop we will just tred carefully. 

Tomorrow we are going to have a look at some of the sights and gorges in El Questro.

Until tomorrow, enjoy our photos :)

Rhianna and Anthony.


                                            The lookout before the Pentecost River - The Cockburn Ranges


                                             The Pentecost River! 

                                            The Pentecost River!

                                            Pentecost River crossing

                                                Pentecost River crossing

                                               Pentecost River - looking through rear window

                               Pentecost River crossing at El Questro - Actually deeper than the real crossing! 

                                                    El Questro - Pentecost Crossing