Sunday, 29 July 2018

Day 16 – Silent Grove (Bell Gorge) 24/7/18


Today we enjoyed a slightly more relaxed morning knowing that the gorge is only just a few kms down the road and we don’t have anything planned today but a visit to the gorge.

We headed off to the gorge at 9am, Neither Anthony nor I could remember the walk into Bell Gorge but it wasn’t difficult and everyone we have spoken to has said its just a 20 minute walk in so Mum came to this one as well. What I hadn’t realised is that its a Stage 4 walk HAHA oops, sorry Mum!! It wasn’t too bad but there is a lot of rock walking and a steep decent which means a steep uphill on way back to car... otherwise it was a lovely walk, i think Mum will never trust me again when i say its just an easy walk though.

Bell Gorge was amazing as always, there is something very special about walking straight out onto the top of a waterfall and looking down over it and seeing the stunning cascade of water – nature at its finest.

Busy morning at the Gorge with a few tour groups and plenty of travellers all wanting to have a look but the area is huge so its not too crowded or anything.

Anthony and Dad took a walk down to the bottom of the falls, Alexis, mum and I stayed at the top as i knew i wouldn’t be able to clamber down the rocky edge safely which is frustrating because the bottom of the falls is the most amazing area to just sit and relax and swim.

Alexis and I went for a swim in the water at the top of the waterfall, it was freezing cold but Alexis was insistent on dipping herself in every 5 minutes and then scrambling to get out coz it was freezing, I sat on a little rock and just had my legs in the water but they kept going numb from how cold the water was. There were a whole bunch of people around me just trying to get the confidence to jump in but the water is so cold and you can’t adjust to the temperature which makes it hard.

We all had a great time and then when we were all over it, we headed back to camp and enjoyed a lazy afternoon and a dinner around the fire.

The camp caretakers at Bell Gorge were wonderful, they drove around in a little Polaris and picked up all the kids and took them for a drive around the campground which made Alexis's day she loved it and its a great little thing to meet all the campers and the caretakers. 












Day 15 – Manning Gorge – Silent Grove (Bell Gorge) 23/7/18


We left later than usual this morning at 9am, as we only have a small drive today to get to Silent Grove approx 130km. Dad made Pan fried toast for breakfast this morning which has quickly become a favourite breakfast food for all of us on this trip – seriously considering selling my toaster LOL.

We were planning to call in and see Galvins Gorge and Adcock Gorge, we saw Adcock last time but it wasn’t all that special so we were thinking of missing it and just seeing Galvin’s but as we were packing up our neighbour mentioned that they did them yesterday and Galvins is crap and Adcock is the one to see so we changed our plans and decided to go with Adcock instead this time around.

We turned into Adcock Gorge track and i quickly remembered that this was the track where we actually unhitched the trailer last time as it looked a bit too intense for the trailer as well but after we got through we realised we would have been OK with the trailer, I passed on message to Mum and Dad that although it looks a bit wary it will be OK to keep going through, not long after I said that Dad stopped mid track and got out of the car, he came over and said that there are some big rocks which he will bottom out on and just doesn’t want to bother and risk breaking anything so he is going to reverse out a bit and park up on side of the track and we can walk in, all good.

We backed up a bit to let him move the car and trailer to where he wanted to park it up – the side of the track has a dry gully area which drops off from the track and some trees so dad decided he would park it up along side that under the trees.

Mum was watching the back of the trailer to make sure that it didn’t hit the trees and no one thought about the car so the back wheel accidentally dropped into the gully and the whole car got tipped up, scared the shit out of us all but dad put the foot down and it was able to move forward and go back down onto all 4 wheels again. After that we decided to call it quits on seeing Adcock so we headed off toward Silent Grove again.

We arrived at Silent Grove at 1.30pm and found a beautiful large shady site to call home for a few days. We were warned that the solar hot water runs out fairly early on and is once again gravity fed so low pressure, we have worked out that if you don’t have a shower by about 3pm in the afternoon you are guaranteed to have a cold one.

We had a lazy afternoon and will go down and see Bell Gorge tomorrow morning.
Mum told us that their stereo is working again, just turned on and is working perfectly normal again so who knows what’s going on there

Damage to date: 2x flat tyres, 2x reflectors missing, 2x batteries in cars gone flat, 1x freezer, 1x rock dent to intercooler guard, 2x handheld radios, 1x stuck kitchen, 1x solar cable lead, 1x stereo stopped working temporarily but started again, 1x Anderson plug broken, 2x front Mcpherson Struts buggered.  Overall, not too bad – and most importantly we are all safe and well so that’s all that matters.

Day 14 – Manning Gorge 22/7/18


Dad, Anthony and Alexis went on the walk to the Gorge this morning and had a great time but the water was too cold to swim for too long so they were back before lunch.

Mum and I stuck to our plan and went to relax by the water near the boat, we were only there for about 20 minutes when Dad and Anthony appeared on the other side of the water heading back to camp so it was good timing. 

They said the walk was good, hard but not as bad as Mitchell Falls or El Questro. Heading off again tomorrow to Silent Grove.






Day 13 – King Edward Campground – Manning Gorge (Barnett Roadhouse) 21/7/18


We all woke up tired and sore this morning, more exhaustion than anything else I think. We left camp at 9am headed for Barnett Roadhouse – the home of Manning Gorge. 60kms back to the intersection of Kulumburu and Gibb River Roads, we arrived at the intersection at 12.30 and stopped for a lunch break and stretch.

Dad found that the Anderson Plug had broken which would have taken a fair bit of force, most likely caught on a rock or tree branch or something, luckily he had a spare so a quick repair on the side of the road and we were on our way again.

Mum told us that randomly their brand new stereo system in their car has just stopped working for no reason at all, no matter what they do they can’t get it to turn on, pretty disappointing considering its brand new. Dad is blaming the roads, but no one really knows what has happened.

Back on the GRR again, we arrived at Barnett Roadhouse at 3.45pm and did some much needed shopping for essentials, fuel and paid for the campsites for the next few days. The campsite is 7km from the roadhouse and was much busier than we had expected, seems like the Kimberley’s have become the “must see” since 5 years ago when we came up here. The showers here at freezing cold and gravity fed so the water is a dribble and almost too cold to bare.

Tomorrow Anthony and Dad are going to go to Manning Gorge, the walk is one of the harder ones and after yesterday I have decided to give it a miss. It is a 3.5km return walk but quite rocky and difficult in some sections. 

There is a little tinny boat connected to a rope that takes you over the water at the start of the walk so you don’t have to swim if you don’t want to, it is such a great idea and where the boat is, there is a great little area of the gorge water that you can swim in so Mum and I made a plan to go down to the entry of the walk and sit by the gorge tomorrow and relax and watch the boat go back and fourth while they are out on their walk.

Day 12 – Mitchell Falls 20/7/18


7.30am we left the camp ground to head off on our adventure for the day, got going as early as we could. Everything you read about the walk says to allow 4-5 hours to complete it so we easily have a 10 hour day ahead of us with the drive.

It took us 1.5 hours to drive the first 30 km of the road, and we arrived at the carpark at 10.35am so the information of the 3 hour drive is about right – to be honest though in all of our opinions the road is not the worst road ever, it is a standard bush track and it is what you would expect a bush track to be, it isn’t maintained and although they are doing some work it is only because of extreme flood damage but they haven’t done much as of yet. It is a very pretty drive and the scenery just changes almost immediately from anything else you see in this area, its all palm trees and gum trees together but everything is so green and skinny and tall as they are all fighting for sunlight and space.

We went straight to the Helicopter charter office to organise the helicopter flight on the way back, we decided long ago that we would do the helicopter one way and the best way would be to walk up and fly back, unfortunately they couldn’t match the timing we needed, they have 8 helicopters and 9 pilots and currently only have 1 pilot flying as they have all been overworked so much in the last week that they are out of hours and have to have a break, which meant that the times for the flights are limited. 

We were advised to catch the chopper up and walk back, no time restrictions to meet that way and they said the walk is exactly the same whether you walk up or back its not uphill one way and downhill the other or anything so we settled on that and waited for 15 minutes for our flight and left at 11.30am on the helicopter.

$299 per person for 18 minute flight which takes you over the National Park, shows you were the fresh water and sea water meet, and you get a fantastic view of Little Mertens, Big Mertens, Little Michell Falls and the Main big Mitchell Falls – it is absolutely spectacular and was worth every cent to experience, highly recommended to anyone who is thinking about it. Alexis was ridiculously excited to be finally able to go on a helicopter after watching them for so long but once we were in the air she panicked and took off her headset, seatbelt and told Anthony she was getting out so it was a bit of a hard flight trying to settle her down but about half way through she calmed down and was able to just enjoy it which was nice.

The helicopter lands and the very top of Mitchell Falls and leaves you to continue on the walk, its amazing to get out of a helicopter and stand above the most amazing falls ever seen and just take it all in, such a beautiful place. We sat down overlooking the falls and had some lunch before starting the walk so we all had our strength up. It is a hot day and starting the walk at lunchtime isn’t the best idea but we didn’t have a whole lot of options so off we went.

The start of the walk in the top of the falls so you walk across water which we took advantage of and we had a swim before we even started so we cooled down ready for the rest of the walk. Some of the water is still so the rocks underneath are all mossy and slippery so you need to be really careful where you walk, Dad stood on a seriously slippery rock and lost his balance about 10 times before finally able to step onto another rock to stop from falling in, he didn’t fall somehow which is good as he was carrying all the food, towels and phones HAHA it was very funny to watch him do a dance to try and stay upright.

The walk is hard work, so many different changes in track conditions, rocky hill climbs and decents to sandy flat walks and everything in between, its long and there isn’t a lot of shade so it was definitely hard work for all of us to complete, but stunning, the walk takes you along a hidden billabong where there are fresh water crocodiles relaxing on the banks, over the top of the waterfalls, underneath the waterfalls and around through the National Park grounds to experience it all. It took a lot longer than we thought that it would have, we were advised by the ranger as camp last night that the walk can be done in about 2 hours, we finished the walk at 3.30pm and were all absolutely buggered by the time we got to the car but so so happy that we did it!.

Just near the end of the walk you can climb down rocks to the bottom of Little Mertens Falls and have a swim, we were all soooooo hot and exhausted that we were absolutely going down to just stop and cool off for a while, it was breath taking how stunning it was, you can climb up behind the water fall and look through it, jump in the water and swim, laze around on rocks in the sun and if you walk up next to the falls there are aboriginal paintings on the rocks. We all got ready to dive in and as soon as we touched the water we backed right away – it was welllllll below freezing and there is no way you could convince yourself to just dive in no matter how hot you were... some people did but the screams that they let out told us everything we needed to know – bad idea. We just dipped out feet in for a bit but even that leaves you shivering so we just cooled off in the shade and had a rest before continuing on.

When we got back to the carpark we spoke to some older ladies who had just finished, they said that they had walked up and back – CRAZY, we all decided there is no way we could have walked both ways. Sadly they had then suffered from heat stroke and where trying to cool themselves down before they could drive back to camp. After discussion with them they had said that they should have cooled off at Little Mertens to continue the last bit of the walk but when they arrived they were advised that there was a big brown snake in the water and not to go in so they gave it a miss but suffered for it unfortunately. We didn’t see the snake but had no intentions of going in the water anyway.

We left the carpark at about 4pm after a rest and cool down and we started the drive back to King Edward Camp where mum was waiting for us. We arrived back at camp at 7.30pm so a full 12 hour day, the sun goes down here at about 5.30pm so most of the drive home was in the dark but we were able to find the better sections of the track having driven one way already, some of the corrugations could probably swallow the car whole lol, when the headlights hit them you cant even see the bottom of them, its just a dark hole they are their own kind of corrugation. We arrived back at camp to dinner ready and a fire burning which was very welcoming after such a big day.

We were due to have another day in the Mitchell Falls area but due to the unforseen events of the last few days we are on a timeframe to have to leave tomorrow and continue on. Kimberley region now have bookings for the gorge campgrounds along the Gibb Road which means you book and pay before we leave online and are then bound to your days so we have to keep on keeping on as we have pre-booked Manning Gorge which is our next stop. Fingers crossed for a better day on the road tomorrow.
The sign on the Kulumburu Road on way to Mitchell Falls and it was true, one hell of a decent! 



Ready to go 

Co Pilot 

Where the sea water join fresh water

Mitchell Falls

Big Mertens and Mitchell Falls

Mitchell Falls

Helicopter at the top of Mitchell Falls


Info on the walk

Mitchell Falls taken from the top of the falls before the walk

Big Mertens Falls

Some of the walking trail

Little Mertens Falls

Little Mertens Gorge

Little Mertens Falls

Aboriginal Paintings behind the waterfall




Day 11 – Drysdale Station – King Edward Campground 19/7/18


We left Drysdale at about 8am, 100km to get to King Edward Campground and as previously warned and read about we were prepared for a full on day of rough rough road conditions and a very slow travel day. Some of the corrugations are definitely up there with the worst around but we just slowed up and battled through, nothing else you can do except probably break something and end up on the back of a tilt tray. We sat on 10km/h for quite some time unable to do anything but just ride the waves of the road until it improved.

1.5 hours to do 50 km’s where we stopped for a stretch and to wait for mum and dad who were only just behind us as we were on about the same speed. We turned onto Port Warender Road at 10.15am the campground is 8km up from the turn off. We arrived at camp ground at 11.30am. The camp ground is nice, tidy and big spaces where you can just pick an area that suits you – Firepits, hybrid toilets in extremely clean condition and the King Edward River behind the campground which plenty of people were fishing and enjoying.

Late afternoon Anthony, Dad, Alexis and I went for a walk down to the Munurru Falls which is just an easy 10 minute walk from the day rest area, we saw the signs about it on the way in and figured we may as well visit it and we are so glad we did! The place is gorgeous.. you walk out onto rocks with no guide posts you just make your way around the area to the top of the falls, side of the falls, climb down and swim and check out under the falls – it is so pretty and no areas are blocked off so its lovely and quiet as everyone just finds their own little spot to enjoy the surroundings.

Dad found the cable to the solar panel is definitely broken and replaced it tonight which seems to have fixed the problem so hopefully now we will have no more issues with charging batteries etc for the rest of the trip.

Off to Mitchell Falls tomorrow, 78kms to get to the day area to do the walk and it is the bit of the road that everyone talks about so we will see.. we have decided Dad will come in our car as it travels better on the corrugations and hopefully we can do the trip in OK time, they estimate 3 hrs minimum to do the drive from King Edward to Mitchell Falls so it is going to be a huge day when we include the walk as well.

Munurru Gorge 

Munurru Falls 

Munurru

Munurru

Our camp at King Edward Campground 


Saturday, 28 July 2018

Day 10 – Middle of Nowhere – Drysdale Station 18/7/18


Well as you all know we should have been in Ellenbrae yesterday but that didn’t happen and although we made a very nice little temporary home for ourselves burrowed in a gravel pit, we needed to move on and get to our next destination which was meant to be King Edward Campground half way up to Mitchell Falls... and as you can see from the title, we didn’t make it BUT we did get to Drysdale Station and it is actually a really, really nice little spot. Anyway on with the story of today’s events.

6am wake up and hit the road, we needed to get a long way in a short time and with a start on the back foot we left early. We decided to aim for Drysdale Station as it is the most we can push for today knowing how far we still need to go and with reports of the Kulumburu Road being the worst in the country we knew we wouldn’t be able to make King Edward today.

We arrived at Ellenbrae at 9.30am and waited for Mum and Dad to arrive, we sat down and enjoyed a much deserved coffee and scone which they are famous for and let Alexis have a run around. 

10.30am and Mum and Dad finally arrived – they unfortunately scored yet another flat 5km from the turn off into Ellenbrae and it set them back quite a bit. Over $500 for a new tyre at Ellenbrae but worth it when it could be done on the spot in the middle of nowhere.

We arrived at the Intersection  of Gibb River and Kulumburu Roads at about 12.45pm and headed onto Kulumburu for Mitchell Falls. Kulumburu Road is in much better condition than the Gibb River and we were able to make up a bit of time heading into Drysdale.

Drysdale is a great little spot, restaurant, pub, fuel, massive campground, hot showers everything you could need to help you on your way – we didn’t utilise the restaurant or pub but fuelled up knowing its 600km at least without any distractions before we will see fuel again and called it a night all exhausted and knowing we still have another big day tomorrow heading into unknown territory.

When we booked in the attendant advised us or more so told us very directly not to even bother at all trying to attempt to take the camper trailers past King Edward Campground to get up to Mitchell Falls. He said that the tow trucks have been absolutely booked out in the last few weeks picking up camper trailers and caravans from further north on the road from people who insist on towing past the point. 

We took the advice and decided then and there that we would base ourselves at King Edward tomorrow and prepare for a MASSIVE Day to do a day trip up and back to see Mitchell Falls by car instead of staying up there – at the end of the day we can’t risk losing our trailers this early in the trip when they carry everything we need and is our place to sleep at night. Better to be safe than sorry.

Lookout 

Ellenbrae

Ellenbrae




Day 9 – El Questro – Ellenbrae...Umm and suddenly the middle of nowhere...17/7/18


This morning we all woke and packed up early knowing we have a fairly big day with a rough road and the suspension in mum and dads car giving them grief which has slowed them right up on the dirt tracks especially with these corrugations, its slowed us all up recently we are all taking it pretty easy. We had already decided a few days ago that we would do Emma Gorge on the way out so we headed there first and took off on our walk. Mum stayed and relaxed in the shade for a while. 

We left on the walk at 11am and we were back by about 2pm they say about 2 hours for the walk  each way, we did well, it wasn’t a hard walk but difficult in some sections, especially seeing as Anthony had Alexis on his back and she is 15kg and I am 7 months pregnant. 

Emma Gorge is beautiful, 110m waterfall drops from the top of the ridge and you can sit by the gorge, the water is insanely cold but we had a little wade into it as Alexis really wanted to swim. 

We headed off on the Gibb toward Ellenbrae and it was seriously ROUGH, dad is down to 20km/h and we can’t get anything about 70km/h, we stopped at the Pentecost River and let the car cool down and wait for Mum and Dad got some good photos and watched a few others go through, it is deeper than last time we were here but still not over the wheels. 

5.30pm we decided to call it quits and set up on the side of the road, it was getting dark and we are still at least an hour and a half away from Ellenbrae. We found a roadside stop but it was badly burnt out and no good to set up camp but we went 5km down the road and found a track leading off to the side of the road which ended up being a gravel pit which was perfect so we waited for Mum and Dad and then went into the Gravel Pit and set up camp for the night – it was a real blessing to find it as it could have been a very difficult hard drive in the dark for as long as we still had to travel. 

Tomorrow is another day. We are about 80km from Ellenbrae and all praying that the road ahead improves even slightly but doubtful as we haven’t seen a grader or any sign of any work going on.

Emma Gorge

Emma Gorge 


Pentecost River Crossing

Just some of the corrugations 

Our bush camp at gravel pit 






Day 8 – El Questro 16/7/18


Today Anthony and Dad went to El Questro Gorge. I decided not to go after reading the information about it with big rocky climbs and slippery sections and tight squeezes it wasn’t worth attempting it. They left at 8.30am and arrived back at 12.30pm. 

While they did the walk Mum, Alexis and I had a girls day, we went down to the cafe and enjoyed some morning tea, watched the helicopters in awe, Alexis is just so excited to see and watch them. El Questro do tours so they are constantly up and down so she was occupied for ages. 

Then we walked down to the local donkey and said hello but we didn’t get too close as we weren’t sure if he was friendly or not and we went to find the menu for dinner at the restaurant so we knew what to expect for dinner. 

Anthony and Dad got back to camp and said that the walk was pretty hard and I wouldn’t have made it, Anthony fell in twice trying to climb the big boulder in the water – he didn’t realise until he finally got to the top that he had lost his shoe so he had to dive back in and try and find it, water was so clear but he couldn’t see it anywhere, turned out it had gone in under the little hole under the rock in the water.

Later on in the afternoon Dad realised that the solar wasn’t charging which had flattened the battery in the camper trailer so this afternoon was spent trying to work out what had happened and how to fix it. It appears to be a faulty cable but the multimeter shows that the cable has power.

We went to dinner at 6pm and enjoyed some live music at the bar before going in for dinner and then enjoyed a night of yummy food and a great atmosphere and then went back to the pub area to enjoy the last of the music. The musician was very talented and even did a song on a 12 string guitar which went for over 5 minutes!